Repainting Bedroom Furniture
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Why worry about how to paint furniture the right way, you ask? Well, it's true that you could just get right to work and not worry about things being picture-perfect. There is, after all, no shortage of articles about painting furniture online, and I've personally used many of them to paint bedroom dressers, rustic living room console tables, cozy chairs, farmhouse décor, and more. In fact, many of the items in my own home have been refurbished and brought back to life thanks to those very tutorials.
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But that doesn't mean I—and likely you too—don't have any issues with them, or with "shortcut" painting techniques. For instance, you might notice that the paint you apply during one of these hurried projects eventually chips and peels after only a few weeks (or days!). You might also remark to yourself that this or that finish doesn't look quite as smooth as you'd thought it might. In a worst case scenario, you might have even had to entirely redo a DIY furniture painting project in the past, thanks to one of these unexpected snafus.
So today, after compiling all of the most common mistakes I've witnessed over the years, I'm sharing my guide to painting furniture—the way that actually, truly works.
1. Start by sanding.
You'll often find tutorials out there that claim you don't need to sand, and there are also lots of primers and paints promising that no sanding is necessary. But from what I've learned over the years, sanding is a must. Be sure to start any painting project by sanding your surfaces with 150-grit sandpaper. (I use this orbital sander with variable speeds.) Be careful not to gouge the surface though: You're just looking to rough it up a little so the primer has something to adhere to; you're not trying to strip the surface.
Tip: Use 80-grit if you are sanding a furnishing with an existing varnish.
2. Remove any residue.
Once you've sanded, be sure to wipe down the surface with a tack cloth to remove any residue. Trust me: Do not use a paper towel, and don't speculate on whether it might be better to use a lint-free cloth. Just use the tack cloth!
3. Prime it.
If you're priming laminate furniture, use Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer. Otherwise, use Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer. Prime using a mini foam roller, and use a foam brush to get into any hard-to-reach areas. Let the primer dry according to the instructions on the can of primer. Once it's fully dry, sand away any drips with a 220-grit sanding block, and wipe your piece down with a tack cloth.
4. Paint it!
Finally: It's painting time! Use a mini foam roller to apply three thin coats of semi-gloss latex paint. Allow six to eight hours in between coats. It's important that you sand in between coats if you have any drips or residue on the piece. Use the same sanding block and a new tack cloth. The new tack cloth is very important here: You need to remove every speck of lint and dust before applying the Polycrylic Protective Finish in the next step. It's clear, so everything shows. I've blamed everything from the dog to the paint for the tiny pieces of fuzz I've found when applying the Polycrylic, but it's really because I didn't remove everything with the tack cloth.
5. Protect it.
Finally, use a new mini foam roller to apply a thin coat of Polycrylic Protective Finish water-based protectant in gloss. You want to make sure you go over this coat very lightly with the foam roller to smooth any bubbles that can occur with the foam roller. Allow 72 hours for it to dry before using; otherwise, it can get sticky.
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Source: https://www.countryliving.com/diy-crafts/tips/a266/paint-furnishings-and-learn-from-my-mistakes/
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